Two years ago, Mrs. Horne and I went to Oak Bluffs at the end of September for an overnight, but ended up staying three days thanks to a massive fog bank that never lifted.
Although it was a little tense at the time, we loved the laid back atmosphere of this busy little tourist port once the summa people have left.
Then last year, we went over with Doc Ruel and his wife Joan who traveled in True North, their Pursuit 34.
In 2019, we also stayed at OB for our first cruise of the season with Peter and Mary Lee as well as mid-summer with Kay and Steve. I think we’ll be back next spring, but we’re done with the summer tourist craziness (unless we decide to try a midweek day in July or August).
An Official Tradition
Somewhere over the summer Mrs. Horne and I decided to put our autumn trip to OB on the schedule for the last weekend of September. It’s clearly now a tradition like Nantucket for Father’s Day, The Newport Folk Festival, and Block Island in August.
This year we invited back our #1 crew – Gail and Rudy who’ve been tied up most of the summer with family commitments.
We also planned on a 4-day/3-night trip from the get-go and fortunately, the weather forecast cooperated fully…
Oak Bluffs is only 20 miles from Mattapoisett, so I wasn’t really too worried about rough seas – Vigilant can pretty much handle anything in Buzzard’s Bay and MV Sound. As the forecast indicated, Buzzards Bay was like glass on the ride over…
We left around 10:30, arrived at 11:30, and once we got settled, we took a break before heading into town…
As has become the norm, we weren’t even tied up for 30 minutes before a couple of My Buzzards Bay followers walked up to say hi and thanks…
Their names are Warren and Joanne, they cruise out of From Fairhaven. on the Sea House – a Silverton 43.
A few minutes after Warren and Joanne left, a Bertram 33 full of women pulled in next to us. We exchanged greetings and watched 8 women leave the sole male to head into town.
When we saw Rick (the sole male) get off and start walking down the dock with a Red Solo Cup in hand, we invited him aboard.
Rick’s was an interesting guy. He was in the Navy and he just got his 50 Ton Captain’s License – which may have kicked me into getting mine. His boat is a Bertram 33 called The Ticket out of Falmouth.
THE TICKET STORY – I’m not totally sure I got the story straight, but The Ticket got it’s name from the story of how he and his wife met. Rick was at a party and he got his hands on two Celtic play-off tickets. A few minutes later he was talking to a cute girl. Rick handed her a ticket and said “If you’d like to get to know me, I’ll see you at the game…” and the rest is history!
Continuing his role as a “truly good guy,” all the women on Rick’s boat were in his wife’s Book Club and Rick had brought them over for the day to shop and have lunch at The Lookout.
We ran into the whole grew after we had lunch there…
I wish we’d had that view, but we ended up in “The Cheap Seats” – on picnic tables under a tent on the side of the building. I’ve been to the Lookout several times and never had to wait and always sat upstairs with a view.
Last Friday we got there around 1:30 and had to wait 30 minutes (turned out to be 15), but we got stuck in the “Cheap Seats.” While the food was great as usual, next time I’ll think twice before I say “first available…”
After lunch we did a little shopping in Oak Bluffs and we were happy to see most of the shops are still open in late September.
Nancy’s and The Sandbar are always closed this time of year, I’m guessing right after Labor Day. That makes sense since most of their seats are outdoors.
It was a little surprising to see Giordano’s closed…
Not only is all their seating indoors, but they still have a take-out kitchen operating out of the back of the restaurant.
I also enjoyed a cup of my favorite Ice Coffee at Toccopuro…
These folks make espresso that could hold it’s own in Seattle or San Francisco. The MV Times called Toccopuro PURE HEAVEN.
We returned to The Oyster Bar 02257 for dinner and once again enjoyed great oysters and dinner.
I had the Indian Cove Oysters again and they were plump and salty. Rudy had a mix of Indian Cove and Honeysuckles. He said both were very tasty.
We ended Friday on Oak Bluffs with a spectacular sunset over the Oak Bluffs Boat Basin basking in weather that felt more like July than late September…
Day Two – Walking To Edgartown
Since we were on Martha’s Vineyard for 4 days, I proposed that we spend each day in a different village. Day 1 was Oak Bluffs and Day 2 was Edgartown.
In keeping with Mrs. Horne’s fitness regimen, we decided to walk the 6 1/2 miles. Rudy and Gail took the MV Island Bus.
Let me tell you a few things about walking to Edgartown from Oak Bluffs…
- It sure felt a lot longer than 6 1/2 miles. I’d do it again, but only with really comfy walking shoes.
- It’s an incredibly pedestrian/cycle friendly route. Never did we have to walk on the road (unlike biking to Vineyard Haven) and the path was wide enough for bikes to coexist with walkers.
- It’s incredibly scenic! Oh course it didn’t hurt making this trek on what Becky at Dockwa calls “A Bluebird Day.”
I shot a little video and memorialized it all in an MBB Video set to the first verse of Sheryl Crow’s Soak Up The Sun…
As in all of our challenging moments with My Buzzards Bay, it was all worth it when we arrived at The Seafood Shanty and found Gail and Rudy sitting on the top deck, sipping Bloody Mary’s, and toasting Rudy’s birthday…
We did take the bus back to Oak Bluffs and noticed what looked like a cruise ship anchored a few miles offshore…
I posted this pic on Facebook and my friend Scott (SK Electronics) set me straight – turns out it’s a private yacht (551 feet long) that takes wealthy patrons out for $10,000 per person, per night…
ULTRA-LUXURY SUPERYACHT HEADED TO MARTHA’SMMA Cam – Compiled by MLBaron for westislandweather.com
The brand new super yacht SCENIC ECLIPSE quietly slipped through the Cape Cod Canal and into Buzzards Bay, en route to Martha’s Vineyard, Saturday morning at 4:23 AM, September 28, 2019. Perhaps the most expensive super yacht yet to traverse the canal. *ML’s Note: The huge 551-foot yacht passed through Quick’s Hole rather than navigate Woods Hole on the way to Martha’s Vineyard. Security on luxury boats like this is top-notch and heavily armed with a discreet presence onboard.
Newly christened, Sept 10, the 17,545-ton, 10-deck ultra-luxury 551-foot super yacht estimated at way over $200 Million, boasts a fleet of zodiac boats, helicopters, and a submarine. The $10,000 per night ride also has 10 different restaurants.
Back on Vigilant, the girls took naps while Rudy and I serenaded folks passing by. I was too busy playing guitar and singing to shot any pictures, but I will say that this may be the best spot for dockside busking yet!
Folks stopped and sang along to our rendition of Free Bird and Sympathy For The Devil. Three women stopped and requested Margaritaville. This is not really one of my favorites, but I always do requests when I can.
The woman who made the request shouted out “I wish you were single” as she walked away which I take as sort of a compliment!
Birthday Dinner at the MV Chowder Company
Gail and Rudy love chowder and I think the MV Chowder Company makes the best there is – well, other than my mother’s.
Having enjoyed a good sized lunch at the Shanty, we just split a few appetizers and chowder of course.
Saturday was Gail’s Birthday and the Chowder Company did do a nice job singing Happy Birthday to her..
A Night At The Ritz
One of the my favorite things about Oak Bluffs is the Ritz dive bar. The scene is authentically weird, but it seems to always have the best local musicians anywhere. Over the years I’ve seen The Edbury All Stars, Monica Rizzio, and The Holy Rock and Roll Revival and all have been incredible.
When we booked the last weekend in September for 3 nights in Oak Bluffs, I was hoping to see three great bands, but alas, it was not to be. The Friday night 7:00 PM show cancelled and we don’t stay up late enough to see the 10:00 PM show.
Sunday was the staff party, so the Ritz was closed. The bartender told me that the Sunday night band (Holy Rock and Roll Revival) was going to play Saturday night, so we’d be fine.
We got to the Ritz around 7:30, but it wasn’t Sean McMahon playing, it was a crazy looking woman named Rosie Ritzy.
Not only was The Rosie Ritzy Review totally engrossing musically, but it turns out Rose has an impressive story as well.
She’s a local islander who’s been a musician all her life. She joined the band Vandaveer in 2007, toured the US and Europe, and recently performed on two tracks with Ringo Star on his 2017 album Give More Love (source MV Times).
It was a great show with even Mrs. Horne sticking around until 10:00!
I thought I’d tough it out and stick around to see The Brothers McMahon at 10:00, but at 10:30, they still hadn’t set up, so I retired to Vigilant for the evening.
Day Three – Vineyard Haven
Thanks to the late night, everyone was a tad groggy on Sunday morning. I consider it an accomplishment that I was able to persuade everyone to go the Black Dog Tavern in Vineyard Haven for brunch.
Needless to say, Mrs. Horne and I walked the 3 1/2 miles which seemed infinitely shorter than the Saturday march to Edgartown. That said, there’s virtually no sidewalks and the cars seemed to fly by recklessly.
As is always the case, the breakfast at The Black Dog was the absolute best anywhere on the Southcoast.
Mrs. Horne ordered something called ONE SWEET WORLD, which was listed on the menu as two eggs any style, two Black Dog pancakes, and three strips of bacon ($13). She was served the biggest breakfast platter any of us have ever scene.
After a good walk, she was hungry, but here’s a photo of what was left on her plate after she was all done!
She literally left 2/3’s of her breakfast – although no bacon!
Patriots Game Sunday
We planned our morning around getting back to Vigilant in time to see the Patriots beat up the Bills in a 1:00 PM Kick-off. The game was okay, but a little slow.
Rudy ran out of beer and headed out to grab a six pack and ice around 2:00. He came back 5 minutes later and said “There’s a really good band on a boat playing down the dock. I’m going to watch them.”
The girls and I joined Rudy about 15 minutes later and were treated to one of the most incredible waterfront concerts we’ve ever seen.
It turns out it’s an annual event for the Coop de Ville bar called The Pig Roast…
Knowing this, there’s no way I’m going to miss Oak Bluffs the last weekend in September again (God willing).
Take a look at the moves on this guy who’s barely breaking a sweat!
Second Birthday Night on OB
Saturday was Gail’s’s birthday and Sunday was Rudy’s. We headed back to The Cardboard Box for dinner and another celebration.
As we finished up dinner, Donny Shetler – The Sax Player for the Band, walked in and we sat and talked for a while…
Donny is a really cool guy who’s played with some of the best. He wrote a song for Jon Bon Jovi and even played with my old friend Charles Williams and Johnny Otis.
Day Four – Breakfast at Linda Jeans
Before we headed home, Gail, Rudy, and I had breakfast at Linda Jeans. This is the best breakfast joints in OB and I love the reasonable prices. I always get 2 eggs, 2 homemade sausage links, toast, and home fries for $8.99.
I think Rudy was still celebrating his birthday because he took the plunge for the Rhett Butler…
We all laughed about it and commented that Mrs. Horne’s late father Herbey would have loved this diet busting treat.
We shoved off around 10:30 and made good time on the 20 mile trek home.
I think we’re done with Oak Bluffs for 2019, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s our first overnight in 2020!