Peter and I have been good friends for almost 45 years…

Peter, Mary Lee, and me…

Back in the 70’s, when Peter and I were sharing a $200/month apartment in Boxboro, we’d make the two hour drive to the Newport Boat Show every September just to dream about owning a big boat one day.

When my father bought the Banana Split (C&C 25) in Marblehead in 1978, Peter was on the crew I put together to sail her to Mattapoisett.

Peter and Mary Lee have been regular guests on all of our own boats for two decades including two trips last season (see The Soothing Power of The Sea and The Anniversary Cruise).

Tragically, Mary Lee first discovered she had a brain tumor right after our cruise in 2019 and her cruise with us to Provincetown in 2020 turned out to be her last “normal” weekend outside of the hospital before ultimately moving home for hospice.

On September 11, 2021 Mary Lee shed her cancer ridden body and flew away to God’s loving arms…

Mary Lee

Peter served as Mary Lee’s primary caregiver from the time she moved into home hospice in November of 2020 until the moment she died.

Since returning from California in April, we spent quite few days with both Mary Lee and Peter. Not only did he never complain about the lousy card they were dealt, he took incredible pride in his ability to serve the love of his life for her final days. Peter always believed “Until death do us part.”

It’s been almost a month since Mary Lee passed and Peter has been doing what any of us would do given the circumstances – privately grieving and piecing together his new life.

Our Weekend on Cape Cod

Peter and his older brother Billy are classic “Irish Twins,” born 11 months apart. Billy had a milestone birthday last Saturday and hosted a family party at his home on Cape Cod.

With this in mind, we scheduled a cruise to Hyannis so that Peter could Uber to the party while Mrs. Horne and I explored Hyannis Port. After the party, Peter could stay on Relentless.

As the weekend approached, Friday looked quite nice and Saturday had strong westerly winds forecast, so we added Friday to the cruise with the idea of staying east of Hyannis on Friday night.

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, October has some great Marina bargains and the best could be Falmouth Town Marina at $1/foot (plus electricity. I booked Falmouth for Friday night and found another bargain, well relative bargain, in Edgartown – The Harborside Inn.

Edgartown Friday

The Harborside Inn is absolutely in the center of downtown Edgartown and prices their dockage accordingly…

Relentless from the Seafood Shanty Deck

We first discovered Harborside as a “Day Dock” in 2017 when Barry the old dockmaster charged us $75 to dock Vigilant for lunch.

Back then Harborside was a no brainer compared to paying $40 for a town mooring and then paying Old Port $4/person (each way) for launch service.

By 2019 Barry was gone and Harborside was no longer a bargain. I booked it in 2019 three hours on Labor Day Weekend for $250.

This year they dropped that price to $195 (for boats under 50’) and although that still feels too high, its probably the right price given the convenience of docking downtown.

Oh yeah, I mentioned Harborside was a relative bargain last Friday – they’re offering 25% off when you enter code FALL25 on Dockwa, so I paid $146.75 rather than $195!

Back To The Shanty

If you’re a regular follower, you know we’ve eaten at The Seafood Shanty at least 50 times over the past two decades. This season we branched out to 19 Raw and The Atlantic, but Peter and Mrs. Horne picked the Shanty “for Old Times Sake.”

It was a perfect “Bluebird Day” and right around 70, so we sat outside…

Peter, Mrs. Horne, and I at The Seafood Shanty

We hung out for a couple of hours before making way to Falmouth in light breezes…

Falmouth Town Marina

This was our second visit of the season to Falmouth, and our first at the Town Marina. It’s better located than MacDougalls, but it’s a municipal facility with limited deck service (the dock girl wasn’t allowed to plug in our shore power).

Still, Falmouth Harbor is a great spot to hang out and watch the boats go by…

We walked to downtown from MacDougalls back in August and it was well over a mile. The Town Marina was much closer (3/4 mile) so we walked to town hoping to eat at Anejo’s.

Alas, even at 6:00 on a Friday in October, the wait to be seated was 30 minutes so we returned to LaCucina Sul Mare for some authentic Italian.

Sweet Sausage Rapina
Prime Rib Special
Grill Halibut

Although we were pretty full after dinner, Mrs. Horne insisted on a shared dessert. At first we protested, but when she told us she wanted us to share Carrot Cake, we quickly agreed…

Carrot Cake was Mary Lee’s favorite dessert.

A Brisk Run to Hyannis

Falmouth Harbor was calm Saturday morning, but I knew there was a strong west wind howling up Vineyard Sound. All the erroneous weather forecasts we’ve had this summer has taught me to welcome “wind at my back,” so there was no rush to leave port.

Once we entered Vineyard Sound, I checked ‘s NOAA Buoycast website and sure enough, the Buzzards Bay Buoy was reporting 20 knot gusts…

This would have been a brutal head wind, but riding with it at 25 mph meant we essentially had no wind…

The only challenge is matching the speed of the boat with the period of the waves. As an added bonus, riding downwind also burns less diesel!

Hyannis Saturday

Hyannis is an extremely well protected port, which is another way of saying it’s long slow ride from the ocean to the Harbor – over three miles…

It’s a little narrow, but quite pretty…

Hyannis Marina

The Marina is located on the east side of the harbor. It has nice floating docks, but they’re wood and not as stable as concrete docks.

There is a restaurant (Tugboats) and a bar (Trader Ed’s) on the grounds of the Marina. Clearly, the concept is to keep all the boaters “on campus.”

And that was our plan until I hit up Yelp and noticed that the most recent reviews were mediocre at best…

It looked like they had problems following “New Management.” This is fairly common thanks to government induced labor shortages we’ve seen all summer.

Back on Yelp I zeroed in on Spanky’s as our best bet for lunch on this glorious Saturday. It was another 75 degree Bluebird Day when we walked past Trader Ed’s and Tugboats. As Yelp had reported, both were nearly empty. Clearly the word had gotten out about the new management problems.

We tried to head north toward town, but all the boat yard gates were locked tight…

Eventually we found the single open gate on the far southern end of the Marina – as far as humanly possible from town!

I’m not suggesting that they are trying to discourage guests from leaving the campus or coercing them to dine at their on-property establishments, but I can tell you that the locked gates added a half a mile to the walk to Spanky’s…

Oh well…

Spanky’s Clam Shack and Seaside Saloon

Thanks to all the locked gates, the half mile walk around the harbor to Spanky’s ended up being over a mile, so we were rather “hangry” when we finally got to lunch.

Unlike Tugboats, Spanky’s outdoor dining area was packed with a thirty minute wait for a table…

As you may have noticed, Mrs. Horne and I seldom sit outside or even at our own table. We headed to the bar in the hopes of socializing with the locals.

Mrs. Horne quickly started chatting with the couple next to us and just like that, we made two new friends!

Bailey and Dan

They actually weren’t locals, although Dan spent a lot of time in Massachusetts. They were from Minnesota where they boated on lakes – mostly for fishing.

Dan was in town for the Best Buddies road race. His job caused him to travel back and forth by plane. He told us the flight attendants didn’t like his face mask very much…

We talked all through their lunch and ours – which was very good…

That enormous platter of fried scallops was actually a fried scallop roll without the roll!

Billy Moore

After Dan and Bailey left we started talking to the bartender and a rather distinguished looking man next to me. It turned out to be Billy Moore the owner and the bartender was his son Will…

Will and Billy Moore

We talked to Billy for another half hour. He’s a 4th generation Cape Codder and has owned Spanky’s for twenty years. We told him how we ended up at his restaurant and somewhat surprisingly he defended Tugboats – a true gentleman.

Before we left he asked us where we were eating dinner and we told him Embargoes. He said “Why would you want to eat there, it’s a night club?”

He suggested Alberto’s or The Naked Oyster. Since we’d had Italian the night before, we decided to try The Oyster.

Enjoying Autumn’s Fade

I love the Flybridge on Relentless, but since it’s open on all four sides, it gets cool on a breezy autumn afternoon. At this point we know our Flybridge days are numbered, so we try to take advantage of every one that’s left…

While I took in the gorgeous afternoon, Mrs. Horne started making friends with the fishermen hanging out on all the Vikings around us.

She learned that there was a two day Tuna Tournament starting at 5:00 AM Sunday off Chatham and they were all double checking their gear beforehand (more on this later).

The Naked Oyster

Peter got back from his brother’s birthday party around 5:00 and we called Uber to take us to town. The Naked Oyster doesn’t take reservations so we wanted to get there a little early.

It’s a long narrow restaurant with very chic decor…

They offer a robust menu featuring fresh shellfish with traditional dishes as well.

Cape Cod Blonde Mussels ($18)
Mussels-shishito peppers-Cape Cod Blonde beer- Dijon crème fraiche-focaccia
Lobster orzo ($42)
Maine lobster meat-orzo pasta-brandy- cream- fresh herbs
Thai shrimp & rice noodle ($30)
Wild shrimp-peanut lime sauce-bok choy-edamame-carrot-cashews

As Mrs. Horne was finishing up her mussels, I grabbed a piece of warm bread and slopped up the broth.

As you can imagine, a broth made up of shishito peppers, Cape Cod Blonde beer, and Dijon crème fraiche was absolutely heavenly.

I quickly ordered more bread and all three of us enjoyed bread and broth for dessert…

Before we left Chef/Owner Florence came by to make sure we enjoyed her restaurant…

Thanks to Billy Moore, we discovered a real gem in Hyannis. The Mussels weren’t the typical white wine and garlic. And both the Lobster Orzo and Thai Shrimp were truly unique.

We grabbed Uber for the ride back to the Marina where we discovered several of the Tuna Fishing teams drinking beer and prepping for a 4:00 AM departure…

Mrs. Horne was fascinated by these guys and struck a conversation with the guys in the Viking 55 next to us.

The guy in the cockpit above was a Boston firefighter. Mrs. Horne’s family (The Vaillancourt’s) is full of firefighters.

It turns out that this guys best friend (also a Boston firefighter) is from Mrs. Horne’s hometown and he’s the son of the late John Centrino, who served on the Fitchburg Fire Department with Mrs. Horne’s late brother Gary.

John Centrino, or Bozo as his friends called him, was tragically killed fighting a fire the day before Gary’s wedding in 1977…

As they say, it’s a small world, but even smaller when you travel through it with Mrs. Horne.

Final Chartroom Run of The Season?

Sunday turned out to be our third Bluebird day in a row, which has been a rarity on Buzzards Bay this summer.

Knowing that the Chartroom would be shutting down for the winter on Columbus Day, we headed there with a plan to meet up with Tom and Terry.

It’s about 35 miles from Hyannis to Pocasset and we made the run in a little over an hour.

As we entered Red Brook Harbor, we saw the sad sight of a sailor who must have ignored his charts, tried to cut the corner, and was now sitting on a sand bar waiting for high tide…

As Peter was snapping photos, I noticed several other boaters doing the same. I told Peter to wrap it up quickly out of sympathy for the poor guy sitting at the helm.

Happy Birthday Haley

Tom and Terry brought son Chris, his fiancé Haley and two friends…

After a great lunch and great conversation, the crew at The Chartroom brought Haley a birthday cake as we all sang the birthday song…

Tom and crew left on Vigilant before us, but we caught up and shot photos of both boats as we sped back to Mattapoisett…

The Circle Is Unbroken

We tried to talk Peter into staying Sunday night, but he had to get home. His daughter had just given birth to a baby girl and he was anxious to meet her.

The baby’s name is Madeline Lee, but I’m betting they’ll call her ML. That was Mary Lee’s nickname ❤️