It’s the most wonderful time of the year – Nantucket Week!
Well, it’s never actually been an entire week, but always at least 5-6 days. It’s a Father’s Day tradition to rendezvous with fellow Buzzards Bay Boaters at the incredible island paradise just before the seasonal rates kick in.
Thursday 8:00 AM Departure
The forecast was funny. It called for near-dead calm at dawn and Small Craft Warnings by noon. Mrs. Horne got up early and we shoved off a few minutes after 8:00 for a near-flat, downwind run with the current at our backs. We ran most of the way between 30 and 33 MPH burning 3/4 GPH.
I’ve always followed the shipping lanes to Nantucket but talking to other Captains; it’s clear that there’s plenty of water on the southern run between Chappaquiddick and Muskeget Island.
Both routes run about 50 miles, but the southern run might provide some protection in a Southwester blow.
It’s certainly more scenic…
Jon, Joan, and Jean left earlier than us. Tom and Terry were originally going to leave with us but got delayed. Around 11:30, Terry texted me about lunch, and I walked over to Cru to book a 12:30 reservation.
It’s funny because I had been checking daily on RESY for lunch at Cru, and nothing was ever available. As we learned last week in Edgartown, restaurants hold back a lot of tables for walk-ins and regulars.
The views and food were as good as ever, but two things have changed since we enjoyed a spectacular lunch there in 2020.
The most annoying thing was the addition of dozens of Bose speakers blaring hip-hop music at near painful levels. We asked them to turn down the volume, and they did, but just barely…
I don’t understand what would make someone think people paying $5 for an oyster at lunchtime on the water in Nantucket would want to listen to heart-pumping music.
The other thing that had changed was the menu. It’s much smaller than it was in 2020. After considering everything, we split a half dozen oysters and a cheeseburger…
I would return if it were a day for dining Al Fresco but probably wouldn’t eat indoors again.
Droning Over The Boat Basin
After lunch, I broke out of the drone to see what I could do. Downtown Nantucket has some restrictions on the flight paths at the airport.
The Boat Basin lies in an area with a 60-meter ceiling, which isn’t bad, about a 20-story building.
I’m going to try to shoot some more on our bike ride Monday, and this one may change or get replaced!
Before dinner, we listened to live music at the Rose and Crown with Jon, Joan, and Jean…
We hadn’t been to Slip 14 in years. I love the vibe, and after meeting Jonas (the owner) on Cuttyhunk in 2020, we’ve been dying to return.
Unlike Cru, Slip 14 did not disappoint…
Friday morning was gray but still comfortable. We had a loose plan to go biking with Tom and Terry, but no one was that excited about it.
We were planning to host a cocktail party later, and I needed to pick up some things at the Stop and Shop. Mrs. Horne wanted to go shopping, so are 10:00, we combined the two and headed downtown for some Nantucket shopping.
Mrs. Horne was on a dual mission; something for our home and something for our grandkids. I had no mission, but I was ready to do a little crazy vacation spending if something caught my eye.
Here’s a photo montage of our downtown shopping trip…
I finally broke down and bought a pair of sweatpants at Vineyard Vines with ACK printed on the leg for a mere $100.
B-ACK YARD BBQ
BYB is one of my favorite Seaside Eateries. It is an authentic BBQ joint about three hundred feet from the water in Nantucket.
Their BBQ is excellent, and they offer up all the traditional sauces in plastic squirt bottles.
Mrs. Horne and I sat at the bar and immediately struck up a conversation with our bartender Jacob.
Mrs. Horne asked Jacob about the mason jars full of popcorn and candles.
“Doesn’t the popcorn pop from the heat?” she asked.
“Never, but when I see kids staring at it, I tell them it might,” said Jacob.
“I also tell them if it does, and they catch it, the entire meal is free.”
“The kids then stare at the candle for ten minutes waiting for the popcorn to pop!”
Jacob also told us about their special. They call it a Nuben, and they offer it most Fridays. Mrs. Horne and I decided to split one.
It features home-smoked pastrami, Swiss, kimchi slaw, and red pickled onions on an inverted pretzel bun grilled like a panini.
First Cocktail Party of 2022
With Vigilant and True North in the basin, and a sunny afternoon in the forecast, it seemed like an excellent time for a party.
It was nice sitting up in Flybridge despite the chilly June air. Even nicer was the rainbow that appeared on our way to dinner.
It appeared to be coming from our friends Harris and Nancy’s house on the island’s northeast side. They’ve always seemed like the lucky types.
Our friend Scott grew up on Nantucket, and he’s the former owner of Andersen’s and The Hub downtown (his daughter Tess now runs both.
Jon had mentioned to me that Oran Mor was Scott’s favorite restaurant on Nantucket, so I watched the calendar, and the day they opened for reservations, I booked Friday night.
It’s a really cool spot that seems to spread across the second floor of an ancient and quaint home.
They didn’t offer any wines by the glass I recognized, but they did sell half bottles of Justin Cab ($45).
The food was expertly prepared, and the presentation was gorgeous. The reviews on taste were mixed. Those that ordered the Bucatini ($36) were quite happy.
Jean ordered the Pork Chop ($37)…
She thought it was overdone and dry. Pork is tricky, but overdoing it is a rookie mistake.
I went with two appetizers – Roasted Oysters and Beet Stained Radiatori
The best way to describe the oyster’s flavor was “Odd,” I admit that I didn’t completely deconstruct the ingredients on the menu, but I was expecting the flavor profile of a good French Escargot.
Instead, all I could taste was the Lovage, which is a fragrant, almost lavender flavor that somehow overpowered the garlic, parsley, and butter flavors. I was not a fan.
I was similarly disappointed in the Radiatori.
There was nothing on the menu that could account for the odd and overpowering flavors on my palate.
Like the oysters, the ingredients listed on the menu are all familiar and have intense flavors, but a mystery ingredient buried them all.
My only guess was the beet stain, but that should have only brought color to the party, not enough flavor to overpower smoked bacon and blue cheese – not to mention figs and almonds.
We’ve eaten out about fifty times on Nantucket and have never been disappointed until this year. First was Cru’s menu and noise, now Oran Mor and mystery flavors.
Oh well, it was still a lovely evening with good friends.
On the way out, we passed a lively bar…
Perhaps that’s what Scott likes so much about Oran Mor. I’ll probably give them another try, but nothing too soon.
We got back to the boat in time to see a gorgeous sunset…
Tomorrow we’ll be renting jeeps and heading to the beach…